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LED Holiday Light - LED Christmas Light Fault Repair Knowledge

  • Member since Apr 19 29

    The hard part of the Christmas lights is to find the burnt out bulbs, which most people do through trial and error. If you have a bunch of non-replaceable LED lights, you may think that all LED lights are lost. But don't be too hasty. What if you can find the problematic LED and fix the line. Let us clarify the solution.

    You will need some of the tools that most people who have repaired electricity have.


    Step 1: Warning

    The following relates to live work. If you don't know what you are doing, electricity will kill you. Therefore, if you are not qualified to repair equipment that requires electricity, do not attempt the following repairs. If you do follow these instructions, you will be solely responsible for the electric shock (which may result in your death as described above) or any other risks associated with the activities outlined in this note.

    For example, if you burn yourself with a soldering iron, it is your fault. If you are suffering from lead poisoning due to the consumption of lead solder, it is your fault. If you burn a house because it is not properly isolated, this is your fault. If your spouse beat you with the wand because the ruined his/her Christmas lights, then guess what - your fault.

    Step 2: Required tools and materials
    The tools required are:
    Voltage detector (see, for example, the picture)
    iron
    solder
    Heat shrinkable tube
    Wire cutter
    Wire stripper

    Step 3: Circuit Description
    I am using a 70-light string consisting of two parallel circuits, each connected in series with 35 lamps. When an LED fails, the circuit is interrupted, which affects all other indicators (half of them) in the same series circuit.

    Another factor to consider is the current limit of the LED. LEDs don't like a lot of current, so in addition to LEDs, there is a current limiting resistor in each lamp. For this repair, we will actually bypass the fault light. This will increase the current flowing through the remaining lamps because we have eliminated some of the resistance. However, extinguishing a lamp should not add enough current to damage the rest of the LEDs in the same circuit. Of course there is a limit. Bypassing the two lamps in the same series circuit may increase the current enough to put the remaining LEDs in danger, which will definitely destroy the entire string.

    Step 4: Detection
    The first step is to find LEDs that are no longer working. LEDs that don't work will obviously be half of the strings that don't work.

    After inserting the illuminator, use a voltage detector to check the live voltage line between each illuminator, starting at the end of the wall outlet. The voltage should be detected at the line of ignition entering the first xenon lamp. Then check the wires from the first xenon lamp to the second xenon lamp. This assumes that the first half of the string does not work. If it is the second one, then 70 lights are lit from the 36th light.

    Continue to check the voltage between the lamps. Once it is found that the wire between the lamps no longer detects a voltage, the lamp is most likely a fault light. For example, if there is a voltage on the wire between the lamp 6 and the lamp 7, but there is no voltage between the lamp 7 and the lamp 8, the lamp 7 may be the problem.

    Just to ensure that the voltage between the next set of lamps is tested. The voltage should not be detected.

    Step 5: Verify - Don't try
    This is done to prove a concept. It is not part of the description. You may get an electric shock.

    When I determined that the LED was malfunctioning, I unplugged the light from the power supply and then passed a sewing needle through the wire that entered the LED to bypass the problematic light.

    After making sure that the pins are not touching anything that is conductive, I plugged in the lights again, except that I bypassed the pins that were bypassed by the pins, and half of the strings were not working properly now. This proves that I found the fault LED.

    Then, unplug the lights and start repairing.

    Step 6: Repair
    At this point, I cut the wire that entered the fault LED, placed it on my heat shrink tubing (2 tubes), soldered the wire, and then shrank it.

    Step 7: Conclusion
    After removing the faulty LED light, half of the inactive light string is now working, minus one light.

    As I mentioned before, removing the light increases the current, while the LED does not like the high current.

    The current measured in half of the string is no problem, it is 9 mA. One half of the current of the string was measured with the removal of one lamp and the current was 12 mA. The typical upper limit of LEDs is 20 mA, so even if one lamp is removed, the current level is still reasonable.

    It is good to say that the lights will still work normally after two weeks.


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      October 8, 2019 11:42 PM MDT
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